Remove the blade guards from the saw – it is easier if the blade guides are not interfering with the blade tracking. Adding more tilt to the blade requires loosening blade tension, adjusting tilt, and then re-tension of the blade. There is no use in proper blade tracking if the saw blade is bent, damaged, or in poor condition.
A catalyst for this seems to be Jim Cummings article “Home Shop Bandsaw” in Fine Woodworking #63. From the hundreds of bandsaw owners I’ve talked with since the article appeared, it seems there are lingering questions on how to adjust a bandsaw blade, the blade choice and operation. “To find the correct tension, you can start with the tension scale on your saw, but you will probably need to fine tune the adjustment. With the saw unplugged, increase the tension on the blade until pushing on the side of the blade with your finger using a moderate amount of force deflects the blade about a 1/4” from its normal position. An interesting experiment is to set the side guys too far from the blade and notice how increased feed pressure and turning make the blade wander.
Knowing something about basic band saw blade alignment and tracking can be extremely useful information. The band saw blade passes through a set of steel or heavy plastic blocks, which keep it aligned as it cuts wood placed on the band saw table. The application of tension to align and provide good tracking of a band saw blade is the key in selecting the size of a band saw blade for its correct application.
The first adjustment is to align the upper backup bearing(s) to the blade and simultaneously position the post parallel to the blade from top to bottom of the post. As with the lower bearing adjustments, I recommend more than ‘normal’ tension on the blade to again ensure the blade is tangent between both the upper and the lower wheel. Table to blade and guide to blade adjustments are beyond the intended scope of this thread, but are no less important nor less necessary than those included.
On a typical wood or metal cutting blade the hook or of point of the blade should be pointing down for a vertical blade bandsaw, or for a horizontal blade saw the hook of the teeth should be pointed such that they enter the workpiece first as the blade moves. During regular cutting on a well set up bandsaw the blade will move or bow backwards a bit as you press the workpiece into it. The side guides will assist in keeping the blade cutting straight, but they are not an iron lock on the blade forcing it to cut straight.
Most basic adjustments, including setting the blade guide blocks and thrust bearings and adjusting the tension and tracking of the blade, need to be done each time you change the band saw’s blade. Following this schedule of maintenance and tune-ups helps prevent the saw from developing vibrations and blade wander and keeps your band saw cutting straight and true. If your saw blade wanders during cutting and/or you need to turn the tracking control and tilt the upper wheel excessively in order to track the blade, you should check to see if your saw’s wheels are improperly aligned.
adjusting bandsaw blade tracking Related Question:
Why does my bandsaw blade wander?
If the wheels are worn and do not have a distinct top to the crown then the blade will not know where to go, and may wander around. This of course can cause poor cut quality and difficulty in setting the guides.
Why it is important to check the tracking on a band saw?
A blade needs to be properly tracked in order to ensure a smooth operation, secure operator safety, and to keep the bandsaw running optimally and smooth. It would be a waste of time and money to cut materials without first tracking the saw blade. Without it, crooked cuts result, equating to wasted materials.
How tight should my bandsaw blade be?
The blade should deflect no more than 1/4 in. A good place to begin is to tension the blade until the meter reads proper tension for the next wider blade. For example, if you’re tensioning a 3/8-in.
Why does my bandsaw blade keep falling off?
Blade Tension Is Too Loose The most common reason why the blade is slipping off is that there isn’t enough tension to keep it on. Blades can slowly become loose after years of wear and tear, and eventually, you’ll need to tighten or replace them.
Is it worth it to sharpen bandsaw blades?
Since a carbide-tipped bandsaw blade will cost well over $100, spending a third of the cost of the blade (or more) to get it sharp and working like new again can make financial sense. However the majority of bandsaw blades, the Wood Slicer included, are not worth spending money to have sharpened.
How often should you change a bandsaw blade?
On average your bandsaw blade should last 6 months to as long as a few years depending on what your cutting with it. Make sure to match your blade strength and quality to the project and material your cutting.
Can bandsaw blades be sharpened?
If you’re looking to sharpen your band saw blade, you have two options: manually sharpen the blade yourself or use a mechanical sharpening machine.
Why is it important to adjust the height of the blade guard on the bandsaw?
Adjust blade guard height to about 3 mm or 1/8 inch to 6mm or 1/4 inch above the top of the material being cut. Wider gaps will place tension on the blade and increase the risk of breaking. Ensure the blade is tracking correctly and runs freely in and against the upper and lower guide rollers.
How high should a band saw table be?
For the small shop furniture maker, go with 14″ as the minimum for a bandsaw, though 16″ is better. Those doing larger work might even want 18″ or 20″ machines. Just make sure you have a minimum resaw height of 12″ for versatility.
What is the gullet on a bandsaw blade?
Bandsaw blade gullets are the space or curvature between each individual tooth on a saw blade. With each pass of the blade, the material being cut will curl into the gullet, creating a spiral of material called the chip. Too many teeth in the cut will make the gullet full.