This machine will provide you with a competitive advantage in terms of product quality while being extremely simple to operate.
You will save a significant amount of time, and your products will have a professional appearance that can be used at any time and from any location.
First, use a frosted cover to polish the product’s edges, and then use a hardwood polishing wheel to finish the job.
Finally, there are two leather polishing wheels that are capable of performing their functions flawlessly.
This machine is suitable for the production of all types of vegetable-tanned leather goods.
Specification.
Voltage: 110V/50Hz (alternating current).
350 watts of powe.
Adjustable speed from 0-8000 RP.
Dimensions: 32x18x18c.
Included in the package are.
1 x Polishing Machine Host (included).
1 x Burnishing Wheel Made of Hardwoo.
1 x Belt Pulley (optional).
a total of six sanding sleeve.
a pair of connecting rod.
2 x Carbon Fiber Brushe.
1 x Fixture Tool for Polishing Wheel.
2 x Wrench (optional.
1 x Hex Wrench (optional).
2 x Screw Spikes (optional).
It’s not a bad machine at all, especially considering the price!. As a full-time leatherworker, I am unable to hand burnish all of my items on a consistent basis. My workload can sometimes reach over 200 knife sheaths for customers. For this style of burnisher, there are actually quite a few options available; however, I ultimately chose this one because if I don’t like it, I can always return it, and it was also very reasonably priced. In the end, there wasn’t much to lose…
As is, it will perform poorly right out of the box. This is primarily due to the fact that the burnishing wheel has slots that do not tend to fit stacked leather very well; for example, the largest slot does not fit two pieces of 6-7 Oz leather and only touches the sides. Stack the leather that you wish to burnish and then place a piece of fine sandpaper over the edge. Basically burnish the sandpaper until it is completely in contact with the leather edge to resolve the proble.
The sanding drum performs admirably and is far superior to using a Dremel tool in almost every way. There are a ton of extra abrasives included in the package as well, despite the fact that you aren’t going to use them up very quickly. When you first use him, the sandpaper is a little unbalanced, but after a few uses, he’ll start to even out and you’ll be able to use him at a lower speed. When you first start with a new piece of sandpaper, however, you may find that you need to run at a faster pace.
This is essentially a copy and paste version of Tandy Leathers machine, but with a $100 discount. If you haven’t noticed by now, almost everything they make can be purchased for half the price somewhere else..
Additionally, they included some additional brushes for the motor, which was a nice touch. Additionally, it included an adapter for some sort of leather sharpening wheel that could be purchased separately and was actually quite nice.
The machine is fairly well-balanced when it is delivered. You will notice that the Sandpaper will want to slip off the drum at first. All I use is a tiny bit of double-sided tape to keep it on there, but I’m sure you could use a tiny bit of contact cement or something to keep it on there. I just make sure that it’s removable because you will need to replace the Sandpaper with one of the replacement abrasives that are included.
I would recommend this machine because it is only one hundred fifty dollars and it will do its job admirably. You may not always use the burnishing wheel, but the Sandpaper wheel is very useful. I sand at about half the speed of the burnishing wheel and burnish at about thirty percent of the speed of the sandpaper wheel. It is very easy to burn your leather with an electric burnisher, so you will have to learn the proper speed pressure to achieve the desired result.
This is my personal favorite process for vegetable tanned leather, and I’ve tried a lot of different ones over the years.
After everything is glued together, I’ll sand the drum’s edges smooth and then bevel the edges to make them look more professional. Fill in the gaps between the edges with water and go in at 30 percent speed and burners the edge being careful not to burn your leather because it will affect the following step. With my fiebings Pro dye in a marker, I color the edge, then it’s back to the burnishing machine for another round. Then I’ll put on some tokonole, and at this point I’ll alternate between using a canvas cloth and a burnishing wheel, depending on the situation. Last but not least, take a small amount of beeswax from The Edge and rub it into the wood with a canvas cloth before buffing it out with a soft cloth. Although applying wax to the wheel and burning in this manner is an option, I find that it is necessary to clean the wheel before repeating the process. Because of this process, the fibers are thoroughly degraded, and you can easily restore the shine with a soft cloth when the shine has been lost. When your edges begin to dull, this is the time to use it. It will eventually go away, and you want to set up your customer with the best possible Edge so that they can attempt to restore it.
