A catalyst for this seems to be Jim Cummings article “Home Shop Bandsaw” in Fine Woodworking #63. From the hundreds of bandsaw owners I’ve talked with since the article appeared, it seems there are lingering questions on how to adjust a bandsaw blade, the blade choice and operation. “To find the correct tension, you can start with the tension scale on your saw, but you will probably need to fine tune the adjustment. With the saw unplugged, increase the tension on the blade until pushing on the side of the blade with your finger using a moderate amount of force deflects the blade about a 1/4” from its normal position. An interesting experiment is to set the side guys too far from the blade and notice how increased feed pressure and turning make the blade wander.
Remove the blade guards from the saw – it is easier if the blade guides are not interfering with the blade tracking. Adding more tilt to the blade requires loosening blade tension, adjusting tilt, and then re-tension of the blade. There is no use in proper blade tracking if the saw blade is bent, damaged, or in poor condition.
Knowing something about basic band saw blade alignment and tracking can be extremely useful information. The band saw blade passes through a set of steel or heavy plastic blocks, which keep it aligned as it cuts wood placed on the band saw table. The application of tension to align and provide good tracking of a band saw blade is the key in selecting the size of a band saw blade for its correct application.
The first adjustment is to align the upper backup bearing(s) to the blade and simultaneously position the post parallel to the blade from top to bottom of the post. As with the lower bearing adjustments, I recommend more than ‘normal’ tension on the blade to again ensure the blade is tangent between both the upper and the lower wheel. Table to blade and guide to blade adjustments are beyond the intended scope of this thread, but are no less important nor less necessary than those included.
On a typical wood or metal cutting blade the hook or of point of the blade should be pointing down for a vertical blade bandsaw, or for a horizontal blade saw the hook of the teeth should be pointed such that they enter the workpiece first as the blade moves. During regular cutting on a well set up bandsaw the blade will move or bow backwards a bit as you press the workpiece into it. The side guides will assist in keeping the blade cutting straight, but they are not an iron lock on the blade forcing it to cut straight.
how to adjust bandsaw tracking Related Question:
Why it is important to check the tracking on a band saw?
A blade needs to be properly tracked in order to ensure a smooth operation, secure operator safety, and to keep the bandsaw running optimally and smooth. It would be a waste of time and money to cut materials without first tracking the saw blade. Without it, crooked cuts result, equating to wasted materials.
Why is my horizontal band saw not cutting straight?
Make sure the blade is running in the correct direction. On machines powered by three phases power so it is common to get the wiring reversed and have the blade running the wrong direction. On all vertical blade bandsaws the working portion of the blade should go down. This forces the workpiece down into the table.
Why does my bandsaw blade keep falling off?
Blade Tension Is Too Loose The most common reason why the blade is slipping off is that there isn’t enough tension to keep it on. Blades can slowly become loose after years of wear and tear, and eventually, you’ll need to tighten or replace them.
How is a bandsaw blade tracked?
Tracking describes the in-plane “front-to-back” motion of a bandsaw as it runs on the bandmill wheels. Bandsaw tracking stability returns the sawblade to its initial position after any in-plane side-to-side displacement caused by a cutting force.
How tight should my bandsaw blade be?
The blade should deflect no more than 1/4 in. A good place to begin is to tension the blade until the meter reads proper tension for the next wider blade. For example, if you’re tensioning a 3/8-in.
What causes bandsaw drift?
Drift is cause because the blade buckles under the load. You can see that by stretching a ribbon between 2 points and applying a pressure to one of the edges, it will turn sideway easily. A sharp blade and high blade speed will help a lot with that.
Why does my bandsaw spark?
Ceramics can cause sparks. Or, if your thrust bearing is too far past the blade, more toward the center of the bearing than the edge, then it won’t turn and you’ll get sparks too, and possibly wear a groove in the bearing.
What is the set on a bandsaw blade?
The pattern of tooth setting is “left/right/straight,” where the left and right teeth are for opening or cutting the material, and the straight one – the so-called raker tooth – is for removing sawdust from the timber. The recommended tooth-set values are different for each blade type and profile.