I had put off replacing the belt because it is so difficult to adjust the motor position and to set the tension while trying to keep the pulleys on the motor and saw in the same plane. This frame is bolted securely to the bandsaw frame so that the studs are centered over the openings for the motor bolts. The adjustable bases are available for motors from fractional horsepower to 200 + HP.My saw took a 56 frame.
1.) the stock metal stand is a bit flimsy and I notice some minor vibration in the saw when it’s running, and 2.) the stock stand with the motor mounted on top and to the rear of the saw body takes up precious floor space. “The base I’ve made is open using parts from a flip top stand I had built, then found I didn’t really need. I had originally planned to have the saw sitting so the belt ran down the side of the stand, but decided against that since it’d throw off the center of balance. Instead, I centered the saw and cut a hole in the top large enough for the belt cover to fit with enough room to remove it. Also, I got a Portamate mobile base to mount the stand on so the mobile part of mine is different from what you have planned. The top is 20″x 20” and the saw is very stable. Keep in mind that for many decades, motors were optional purchases for bandsaws you could get a machine already setup properly, buy the saw and motor and make your own base, or just buy the machine bare and use your own motor and stand.
On previous bandsaws, I just used one less layer on the bottom front to leave room for the drive pulley, but with 34 mm thick layers on this one, it made more sense to cut away half a layer instead of leaving off a whole layer. Rather than straightening and then re-bending the wire, I cut two of the jholes into slots so I could still get the block onto the wires. I used a sharpie to mark my cut all the way around to make sure I’d get it square, then cut from one side, turned the shaft 90 degrees, kept cutting, turned it again, and finished the cut.
On top of what was mentioned above, I might want to add, double check the HP rating of your current Powermatic motor. 3/4 HP is terribly low, down into the category of a Ridgid BS1400… Even the Harbor Freight 14″ band saw has a 1 HP motor, and every Powermatic 14″ saw I have seen has a 1.5 HP motor.
“I found harbor freight motors to be very economical and put a 3 horse on my 14” band saw along with a riser block so I could resaw panels and veneer many years ago. You can always look for a used motor, just make sure the mount will be similar to what is already there and the shaft size is the same as the existing motor so you dont have to get a new pulley. Most likely your saw needs a 1725rpm motor, which are harder to find used.