Job site durability is ensured by the use of a telescoping spring loaded barrel.
With the depth stop adjustment knob, you can adjust the depth up to 4″ deep.
The outer rubber sealing fitting (421726-5) and the inner rubber sealing cap (421726-5) are both replaceable (421384-7.
Description of the Produc.
Designed to work with Makita SDS-Plus corded and cordless rotary hammers, the Dustless hammer attachment (193472-7) is a great addition to your toolbox. It comes with a 17-inch hose, a telescoping spring-loaded barrel, a depth stop, bit size adjustment knobs, and a built-in ruler, among other features. The tool does not have a vacuum motor or any other components attached to it. The Makita solution is more compact and lighter in weight than most built-in systems on the market right now. When used in conjunction with a jobsite vacuum, this product is designed to collect more dust (sold separately).
The Manufacturer’s Statemen.
It is part of Makita’s expanding line-up of dust extraction solutions, which includes the SDS-PLUS Hammer Attachment (193472-7). The Hammer Attachment is compatible with both corded and cordless SDS-PLUS rotary hammers from Makita. It has a 17-inch hose, a telescoping spring-loaded barrel, a depth stop, bit size adjustment knobs, and a built-in ruler, among other features. Built-on systems have several advantages over the Makita Hammer Attachment. For example, it provides better tool performance (competitor built-on vacuum motors share power with the tool, which can reduce impact energy/BPMS) and provides a longer cordless run time (battery has to power both the vacuum and tool motor on competitive tools, which can decrease the tool runtime on one charge). Using this attachment in conjunction with the majority of jobsite vacuums will result in increased suction power and improved dust extraction. In comparison to most built-on systems, the Makita solution is more compact and weighs less because there is no vacuum motor or other components attached to the tool. Furthermore, because most built-on systems only have a half-gallon capacity, downtime is increased due to the need to dispose of the collected material on a regular basis.
First and foremost, professionals are likely to find this contraption so inconvenient that they will simply avoid using it. However, for a DIY enthusiast, it is fantastic, albeit with some caveats. A word of caution before we get into the review: make sure you are connecting it to a shop vacuum that has an appropriate filter for concrete dust, which is not always the case by default. If you don’t do that, you’ll most likely end up blasting the dust into the air and inhaling it anyway, assuming that your primary motivation for using this was to protect your personal health rather than to avoid messes.
Okay, it’s time for a review. We’ll start with the bad and work our way up to the good. The problems are as follows.
1) It makes use of a hose that is ridiculously small and short. When I connected the vacuum to this, I had to purchase one of those graduated shop vac attachments. Because of the small diameter of the connection, combined with the lack of vent holes, the vacuum will become extremely loud and hot when in use. A few vent holes would most likely not have a significant impact on the suction at the drill bit, if at all, but they would reduce the strain on the vacuum as well as the noise produced by the drill. I’m thinking about drilling some holes to see how it goes.
In the case of a ladder, the requirement to use strange attachments and other devices that lack a positive locking mechanism means that it will frequently detach when you go up to drill, requiring a return to the ground to reconnect and restart the process. Given the importance of time in the construction industry, a contractor who uses this in a professional setting is likely to become frustrated and simply stop using it.
2) The rubber flaps on the part of the drill bit that passes through the tip of the drill bit serve to’seal’ the chamber where the vacuum inlet is located. So the theory goes that you press it against the wall, it seals off the hole drilling area, and the dust is sucked out through the hole drilling. In all honesty, the flaps aren’t necessary for much of anything. A shop vacuum with strong suction will pick up dust regardless of whether or not the flaps are in place; therefore, they are not necessary. Perhaps they are only available for lower-priced vacuum cleaners.
In any case, no matter how you position the hand grip on your hammer drill, the drill bit appears to never line up exactly in the center of the suction device. Consequently, even after limited DIY use in my garage, the rubber flaps have become completely chewed up in the center section, effectively eliminating any sealing that was previously occurring, leading me to conclude that they serve no purpose other than to obstruct my path and should be discarded.
2) There is insufficient strength in the spring on the part of the drill that recesses into the housing as it drills into the concrete. There are times when the hole is complete and I begin to back out, and the vacuum ring does not extend back out, causing the vacuum ring to remain pressed against the wall, allowing dust to fall out of the hole onto whatever is beneath it. A technique I’ve developed involves positioning my hand in such a way that it allows me to nudge it if I notice that it’s about to happen, causing it to pop back out against the wall. This is yet another reason why it would be frustrating for a professional.
Whatever the case, it is a useful tool despite the issues. The dust that will be generated if you hammer drill in a garage or other enclosed space will spread throughout the area. You don’t want it in your lungs, and you don’t want it landing on your vehicles or anything else. This contraption does an excellent job of solving the problem, albeit with some quirks that you will have to get used to. It’s something I’d buy again, but it could be a little better.
