The Logging Homeowner’s Right-Hand Jack is a multi-purpose manual log lift that lets you lift, roll, move, and cut small to large logs safely and easily. The steel support stand and hook fit wood logs 3″ to 15″ in diameter for amazing versatility.
Heavy-Duty Powder-Coated Steel Tubing Gives Extra Strength, All-Weather Protection, and Rustproof Performance for Years of Outdoor Use. | Rugged yet lightweight design makes it easy to carry.
It is safe to use a chainsaw, a log saw, or a hand saw. Timberjack helps keep chains from getting stuck in the ground and protects against kickback for more safety, efficiency, and speed. It also helps keep chains from getting stuck in the ground.
Jack raises logs to a more comfortable height, while the ergonomic handle gives you the right amount of leverage. You can move, stack, and cut wood for hours without having to worry about back, neck, or shoulder pain, because the handle is comfortable and gives you the right amount of leverage.
It’s easy to put together and comes with everything you need to get started. It also comes with easy-to-follow instructions for setting it up. You can enjoy all the benefits of a commercial-quality log lift in a sturdy, compact, and easy-to-store home system.
Building made of all steel. A good thing, because it’s strong but not too pricey. On the side of the stand, there is a triangular brace. This is a nice touch. I’m cutting down 16-inch Douglas Fir logs that are more than 24 inches in diameter, so a cant hook or timber jack that isn’t very strong wouldn’t last long. Only once or twice a year do I need to cut firewood logs. I can do this with the help of an even more heavy-duty log jack. As a person who works with a chainsaw for a living, the Logrite aluminum cant hooks might be worth a look. They’d cost about $200 with the log stand.
People don’t understand the hardwar. There are M8 bolts and nylock nuts in this set. Bolts are too long for what they’re supposed to be used for, leaving at least half an inch of thread exposed. This thread is bound to get damaged over time. Also, the hook moves on a bolt, not a steel pin. A pin will be bought or made on my lathe to fix this. Better hardware that is the right size and has the right pivot pin would make the whole thing look better. Also, the hook moves inside a steel bracket with a lot of wiggle room, so it can move freely. I’ll make some spacers to close the gap between the body of the hook and the inside walls of the bracket so that it doesn’t fall out. This will solve the problem.
Documentation is only an exploded diagram. There is no explanation for the different holes in the pivot bracket, and there is a clevis that I think is used to keep the hook open or closed, but I don’t know what it does. I think..
No, but I should have looked around more. For 10 bucks less than I paid, one of the big box stores has the same tool. It costs 20 bucks less than it does now. Before you buy something from Amazon, do your research.
The last thought. There are three things I have to rate: Durability, Sturdiness, and Thickness (?). There doesn’t seem to be a big difference between durability and strength, at least when it comes to things that work well. I don’t know how to rate thickness because I don’t know what it’s supposed to be, and I don’t know how to rate it. Do you think it could be thinner. Perhaps “thinness” should be added to the list of categories. Durability and functionality are the only things that matter. Do you think it works. I’ll let you know when I finish the 5 cords of Doug Fir in my back yard.
