More info about tracking a bandsaw blade

Remove the blade guards from the saw – it is easier if the blade guides are not interfering with the blade tracking. Adding more tilt to the blade requires loosening blade tension, adjusting tilt, and then re-tension of the blade. There is no use in proper blade tracking if the saw blade is bent, damaged, or in poor condition.

Knowing something about basic band saw blade alignment and tracking can be extremely useful information. The band saw blade passes through a set of steel or heavy plastic blocks, which keep it aligned as it cuts wood placed on the band saw table. The application of tension to align and provide good tracking of a band saw blade is the key in selecting the size of a band saw blade for its correct application.

A catalyst for this seems to be Jim Cummings article “Home Shop Bandsaw” in Fine Woodworking #63. From the hundreds of bandsaw owners I’ve talked with since the article appeared, it seems there are lingering questions on how to adjust a bandsaw blade, the blade choice and operation. “To find the correct tension, you can start with the tension scale on your saw, but you will probably need to fine tune the adjustment. With the saw unplugged, increase the tension on the blade until pushing on the side of the blade with your finger using a moderate amount of force deflects the blade about a 1/4” from its normal position. An interesting experiment is to set the side guys too far from the blade and notice how increased feed pressure and turning make the blade wander.

When the blade is centered on the top blade it tracks to the front on the bottom wheel. 12-06-2018, 7:21 PM #9 That’s similar to what I see on my saw, except that I run a 1/2″ blade on mine, so the tooth edge of the blade isn’t so close to the edge. 12-06-2018, 8:43 PM #11 I have the Rikon 10-326 as well….I agree that as long as the blade tracks in the center of the upper wheel don’t worry about where it tracks on the lower wheel.

Note in the upper corner of the wheel you can see the blade on the right but on the left there is no blade because it has run off the wheel at that point any ideas what I can do thanks Mike. What you describe makes no sense unless 1) something is interfering with the blade and pushing it forward/backward somewhere, 2) the wheels are way out of spec and one is seriously out of whack, or 3) the blade is defective. Brad you are right it don’t make sense, when i try to get the blade in the blade guide to go back som I can move the blade back on the wheel i can’t get them to line up, I loosened the thrust bearing up and moved them back but it don’t make any difference.

tracking a bandsaw blade Related Question:

Why does my bandsaw blade wander?

If the wheels are worn and do not have a distinct top to the crown then the blade will not know where to go, and may wander around. This of course can cause poor cut quality and difficulty in setting the guides.

Why it is important to check the tracking on a band saw?

A blade needs to be properly tracked in order to ensure a smooth operation, secure operator safety, and to keep the bandsaw running optimally and smooth. It would be a waste of time and money to cut materials without first tracking the saw blade. Without it, crooked cuts result, equating to wasted materials.

How tight should my bandsaw blade be?

The blade should deflect no more than 1/4 in. A good place to begin is to tension the blade until the meter reads proper tension for the next wider blade. For example, if you’re tensioning a 3/8-in.

Why won’t my bandsaw cut straight?

Band Saw: Why won’t my band saw cut straight? When the band saw cuts crooked, a dull blade, improper feeding, loose blade tension or not using a work piece guide could be the cause. Use the rip fence or miter gauge to guide the work piece uniformly through the cutting blade to make straight cuts.

Which way do the teeth point on a bandsaw?

The blade teeth should be facing the operator and pointing down toward the saw table. Tension the blade just enough to take up the slack, then check the tracking by spinning the band wheels by hand.

How long should a bandsaw blade last?

On average your bandsaw blade should last 6 months to as long as a few years depending on what your cutting with it. Make sure to match your blade strength and quality to the project and material your cutting.

Why does my bandsaw blade wobble?

The blade on a saw left idle for long periods of time can leave an impression in the rubber tire which might cause erratic tracking. Purchase and install aftermarket replacement tires. (Search for “bandsaw tire” at woodcraft.com.) If you still see a back-and-forth motion, the culprit is probably the wheel itself.

Is it worth sharpening bandsaw blades?

Since a carbide-tipped bandsaw blade will cost well over $100, spending a third of the cost of the blade (or more) to get it sharp and working like new again can make financial sense. However the majority of bandsaw blades, the Wood Slicer included, are not worth spending money to have sharpened.

How many times can a bandsaw blade be sharpened?

It often makes sense to replace a dull blade with a new one, but you can sometimes get the best value out of merely sharpening an old blade instead of replacing it altogether. You should typically be able to get two to three sharpenings before you need to change your blade completely.

Why is my bandsaw burning the wood?

A majority of issues with wood burning is because of a dull saw blade. These blades may not be sharp enough to efficiently cut the wood, and thus create enough friction to heat and burn the wood. What is this? Dull blades make it more challenging to cut, which causes friction as you pass the wood through.

Why are my bandsaw cuts wavy?

Re: Band saw Cutting Wavy Cuts. The clasic cause for wavy lumber is pushing a dull blade past it’s limits. Sharp don’t get it. On these low powered mills, the blade gotta be razor sharp..

What does resaw mean on a bandsaw?

A resaw is a large band saw optimized for cutting timber along the grain to reduce larger sections into smaller sections or veneers. Resawing veneers requires a wide blade – commonly 2 to 3 inches (52–78 mm) – with a small kerf to minimize waste.

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