The suction from your vacuum provides the power.
A sander powered by a turbine that produces no dust.
The orbital head rotates at a rate of 10,000 revolutions per minute.
Sanding at various angles is made possible by the adjustable head.
When used in conjunction with a Dustless Technologies D1606 HEPA Vacuum, it complies with EPA regulations for point-of-origin dust containment.
Description of the Produc.
The Dustless Turbo Drywall Sander is powered solely by the suction generated by your own vacuum; it does not include an electrical power supply. The orbital head can rotate at a rate of 10,000 rpm and there will be no dust in the system. With an adjustable neck, the sander’s head can be positioned at various angles for sanding. Sanding high surfaces is made possible by the 7-foot extension pole that is included. It should be noted that this is not an electric-powered disk sander and will not sand as aggressively as electric-powered disk sanders. To use the sander correctly, place the sander on the surface and allow the sander to complete the task without applying excessive pressure. If you want dustless performance, use a wet/dry vacuum from Dustless Technologies or a HEPA wet/dry vacuum. This sander enables renovators and contractors to comply with the Environmental Protection Agency’s RRP regulations for dust control. (1) drywall sander and (1) extension pole with a length of 7 feet are included.
The Manufacturer’s Statemen.
There is no electrical power source in the Dustless Technologies 50001 Turbo Drywall Sander; instead, it is powered by the suction of your own vacuum cleaner. The orbital head can rotate at a rate of 10,000 rpm and there will be absolutely no dust present. With an adjustable neck, the sander’s head can be positioned at various angles for sanding. Sanding high surfaces is made possible by the 7-foot extension pole that is included. It should be noted that this is not an electric-powered disk sander and will not sand as aggressively as electric-powered disk sanders. To use the sander correctly, place the sander on the surface and allow the sander to complete the task without applying excessive pressure. If you want dustless performance, use a wet/dry vacuum from Dustless Technologies or a HEPA wet/dry vacuum. This sander enables renovators and contractors to comply with the Environmental Protection Agency’s RRP regulations for dust control. (1) drywall sander and (1) extension pole with a length of 7 feet are included.
Working on a project: I hung 20 sheets of 4×8 drywall (with about 10% waste) with lots of inside and outside corners, as well as some 10 ft tall walls, with lots of inside and outside corners. I’m capable of finishing, but I despise the process. Because of the dust I generated while scoring, cutting, and shaving drywall, my old shop vac’s motor finally died. It also allowed a significant amount of dust to pass through the filter and remain in the atmosphere. As a practicing Respiratory Therapist, I felt obligated to put on a respirator mask whenever I was on the job. I had discovered the Dustless Technologies wet/dry 16 gallon vacuum and was impressed by the reviews, so I purchased it (see my review). Vacuum with a 12-foot-by-1-1/2-inch hose from Dustless Technologies 16003 16 Gallon Dustless Wet Dry Vacuu.
Fortunately, I was able to locate professionals (plasterers, which was a bonus) who quoted $1200 for the job..$700 if I handled the sanding.
Professionals use significantly less compound and do a significantly better job feathering it out, which results in significantly less sanding than when you or I do it. Because I already owned a dustless vacuum designed specifically for drywall sanding, I decided to take on the sanding project. As I contemplated future drywall projects, I seriously considered purchasing the $500+ unit with the intention of reselling it once I was finished. Reviews of the 50001 Turbo, on the other hand, appeared to be favorable when compared to all others, especially when you look into some of the statements made in the more negative reviews. Because I already own the vacuum that was recommended, it seemed like a safe bet.
Following approximately 4 hours of use, here is my review and a list of things I have discovered. I hope they are of assistance.
1. This is an orbital sanding pad that is powered by pneumatics and is covered with velcro. Any paper that has a “looped backing” will adhere to this pad, regardless of the type. With a high-powered vacuum, enough continuous suction flow can be generated to keep the pad orbital frequency constant under load conditions. It must be capable of doing so while using a very high-efficiency exhaust filter; otherwise, the sander may be underpowered, or it may allow fine dust to escape from the vacuum while in operation. I am able to stand directly beneath the sander with no fine dust falling around me because I am using both units that were intended to be used together. Though I doubt I will ever be able to finish as quickly as a professional, I am extremely pleased with the results of my work, and I am particularly pleased with the speed with which it was completed, as well as the absence of any dust in the air during the process.
Secondly, THERE IS A LEARNING CURVE!!. I immediately attempted to use it while still attached to the extension pole. That was a bad decision. While experimenting with the pole extended to its full length, I accidentally applied too much torque to the saddle/swivel (the only weak link in the entire tool), resulting in the breakage of one of the saddle rings. The unit was used as a hand sander after it had been repaired so that I could “learn by observation” the best technique. As with any new tool, there is a learning curve, so set aside an hour or so to learn how to use this one effectively and efficiently, starting with a handheld tool.
3. Convert it to a hand-held device. Any hardware store will carry corrugated tubing with a diameter of about 1 inch, which is intended for use as sump pump drains. You can cut a 6 ft section that has a cuff on each end to use as a guide. It is possible to purchase an adapter that fits into the end of a large bore vacuum hose for less than $5 as an add-on. The opposite end of the hose accepts it and converts it into a lightweight, flexible extension. You will need to split the cuff on the end of the tubing and duct tape it to the sander head in order for it to work properly. In addition to maintaining full suction and not whistleing, this homemade extension makes it significantly easier to manipulate the turbo by hand. As a bonus, it virtually eliminates any torque that would otherwise be applied to the swivel/saddle (if not the need for one in the first place). I believe I will be able to use the Turbo as a hand tool to clean all surfaces, from the ground up to the highest point I am comfortable reaching. I gain more control and want my best work to be in the area that will be subjected to the most scrutiny during the finishing process (eye level).
4. BECOME FAMILIAR WITH THE APPROPRIATE PAPER GRIT, WALL PRESSURE, AND MOVEMENT SPEED. GRIT: Anyone who has worked with an orbital sander knows that it is necessary to use more than one grit. With the proper application of a wall scrapper, I have found that small clumps of compound that have formed on the inside corner can be removed. I also rough sand these clumps with a sanding block and 60 or 80 grit paper to make them less noticeable. I then sand the flat surfaces with the Turbo after putting a few drops of oil in the machine. You can use 100 grit paper for extremely rough spots if the surface is very rough. My plasterers did an excellent job and left little room for criticism. As a result, I used 120 grit on everything (a new sheet for any rough spots – then wire brush it and set aside for finer sanding). WALL PRESSURE: If you press too lightly, the paper will not be worked by the sander; if you press too firmly, the orbital speed will be slowed down. As long as you maintain the proper amount of pressure, the whirring will become lower in pitch, and you will leave “trails of dust” arranged in vertical furrows in your wake. When you return to this area, the vacuum will clear away the trails you left behind. SPEED OF MOVEMENT: Similarly, moving at a slower pace allows the paper to grind away over the rougher surface, resulting in the removal of more material. As areas become smoother, move the sander over the area at a slightly faster speed to sand the area finer (as you may know, 100 grit paper performs like 120 or 140 grit as it wears).
In addition, I noticed that others have stated that this unit will not undercut the opposite surface when run flush in an inside corner, as some have noted that rotary discs are prone to doing. When I am ready to sand the inside corners of a unit, I stop the unit and move the sandpaper so that it extends 3/8 inch beyond the housing on the side that will be pressed into the corner, then restart the unit. However, I have found that it is best to repeat each corner starting from the opposite surface to get the best results. This curved edge fits into the corner and sands both surfaces.
THERE WILL BE STATIC: The adapter for hand sanding is equipped with a prong that allows you to attach the 6 ft copper wire that comes with the kit. However, when used without the metal tube, this wire is intended to discharge electrons rather than being inserted down the metal extension. When you sand near electric boxes, the presence of nearby “grounds” will cause a discharge of static electricity through your hands, which is beneficial. It is beneficial to be aware that these will occur, so keep this in mind when sanding around “dead outlets. The fact that you have a pacemaker or are simply unable to tolerate the occasional “poke” may make this an impossible decision for you. I wear light work gloves with a rubber coating because I work in the health care industry and have “soft hands. I’ve discovered that doing so significantly reduces static electricity as well as the effects of using a vibrating hand tool for extended periods of time. The use of a room humidifier in the work area would also be beneficial in reducing static electricity buildup.
Seventh, when I contacted customer service to report my mishap and discuss my plan to repair the swivel/saddle with epoxy cement, the agent immediately offered to send me a replacement at no charge, which I accepted. In response to my question, “Should I order and pay for any other part(s) that may wear or break now that I have you on the phone?” he responded that “just keep it oiled, and I’ll send you two of the swivel/saddles parts. They eventually switched from a polymer tube (which can still be seen on some websites) to a metal tube in order to better discharge static electricity. I believe they will have a very good product for people like me if they strengthen the saddle piece (or include two with cautions). Wishing you the best of luck with your purchase.
