My bandsaw blade has a back-and-forth motion. If the problem goes away, call the blade manufacturer or the retailer where you purchased the defective blade, and ask for a replacement. The blade on a saw left idle for long periods of time can leave an impression in the rubber tire which might cause erratic tracking.
Some go so far as to suggest tensioning until the blade produces a note when plucked. You simply cannot stomp and kink a blade enoug to move THAT much under full tension. If the longer blade is forcing you to bottom out your tension adjustment that may be the root of the issue.
With either the Wood Slicer or the Grizzly blade, I cannot get rid of the front to back motion. If I clamp a piece of wood behind the blade with the table and rotate the blade, I’ll get up to a 1mm gap between the blade and the wood that varies as I rotate. I get a similar but reduced effect with the wood slicer, and again, no front to back motion with the original blade.
A good place to begin is to tension the blade until the meter reads proper tension for the next wider blade. Breaking in a band saw blade wears off this ultra sharp edge and allows the blade to retain its cutting ability longer. Do not back the stock away from the blade while the saw is in motion if the work piece binds or pinches on the blade.
Option B is to slowly rotate the lower wheel and note where the blade goes in and out – and make a mark on the lower wheel and on the blade at the farthest edge of each wobble then turn the wheel again. If the wobble relates to a problem with the blade – it will correspond to certain points on the blade – if it relates to the saw, it the wobble will relate to points in the rotation of the lower wheel. I called Suffolk and they told me to measure the blade and it turned out their blade was actually 1/8 or so longer than 93 1/2 depending on which blade I measured.
The problem is that when I turn the wheel, blade wobbles left to right more than 2mm, which makes it impossible to brings guide bearings close enough. The Sipa 24 inch bandsaw is 3 phase and has been “Slowed down” using a phase controller to about 1/10th operating speed – to make the wobble issue easier to see and to illustrate the wobble pattern is a predictable cycle and corresponds to each revolution of the blade. I have tried four different blades and the amount of wobble changes from blade to blade.
Its blade wobbles, producing a wavy cut(maybe 2 waves/cm). I’ve started cutting 1/2mm off the tires in those spots with my dremel, once the tires lay perfectly flat that MIGHT fix it, I’m hoping. I don’t see any blade kinks, and the wheel alignment looks really good.
why does my bandsaw blade wobble Related Question:
Why does my saw blade wobble?
The most common cause of wobble like this is that the bearings or bushings are worn out. These are the things that hold the main shaft in place. They should be a close fit to the shaft, and the shaft rotates within them. When they are worn out, there is too much room and the shaft flops around or wobbles.
What causes a bandsaw blade to drift?
Drift is cause because the blade buckles under the load. You can see that by stretching a ribbon between 2 points and applying a pressure to one of the edges, it will turn sideway easily. A sharp blade and high blade speed will help a lot with that.
How do you fix a wobbling bandsaw blade?
Remove the blade and replace it with another. If the problem goes away, call the blade manufacturer or the retailer where you purchased the defective blade, and ask for a replacement. If the problem persists, check the tires on the wheels.
Should a miter saw blade wobble?
Another common cause of a wobbly saw blade is a damaged bushing. To inspect it, remove the outer flange and blade, the bushing is the inner flange that secures the saw blade. If your bushing is cracked, chipped, warped, or otherwise damaged, you will need to replace it.
Should a miter saw blade wiggle?
If your miter saw has a wobble it is certainly cause for concern. Not only is this a safety issue, but it can lead to other serious problems, as well. A wobbling blade will not cut properly, resulting in low precision, poor quality cuts with larger than normal kerf.
How much tension should a bandsaw blade have?
For carbon steel toothed blades (cutting blades) this is typically 15,000 to 25,000 PSI. Slitting type blades typically are tensioned in the range of 12,000 to 20,000 PSI. In general bandsaw blades are never tensioned past 35,000 psi.
How much tension do you put on a bandsaw blade?
Bandsaw blades require tension and lots of it to consistently produce straight, uniform cuts, especially in thick or dense stock. Most blade manufacturers recommend 15,000 psi to 20,000 psi for a common carbon-steel blade.
How long should a bandsaw blade last?
On average your bandsaw blade should last 6 months to as long as a few years depending on what your cutting with it. Make sure to match your blade strength and quality to the project and material your cutting.
Should bandsaw blade twist?
Typical bandsaw blades can be flipped “inside out” to make the teeth point the other direction. On some knife edge style blades and grit edge blades you can get a fresh sharp cutting edge from a blade this way, just by flipping it inside out.
Why is my miter saw jumping?
This type of kickback happens when the kerf closes in on the blade and “grabs” it. It happens frequently when sawing long, wide boards near the middle. When lumber isn’t perfectly straight and flat (and it never truly is) it can’t be held in firm contact with the fence and bed of the saw at every point.
Why is my miter saw burning the wood?
A dull blade will make it hard to cut quickly, and the slower the feed rate of the saw, the more friction against the wood and the greater the likelihood of scorch marks. Pushing the stock through the saw too slowly is a common cause of saw blade burn. Sometimes a blade that feels dull might only be dirty.